River Walks in the Olympics

Drip, drip, drip.  That's the sound of another rainy winter day as you sit inside and dream about summertime.  But why should you suffer cabin fever when there are places outside that are even more incredible when it is wet?

This winter, get to the Olympic Peninsula and take a river walk among the towering trees of its temperate rainforest.  You'll find solitude galore, view rarely seen wildlife, and feel the true beat of the forest under its tall canopy. 

While you may not encounter snow on these low-elevation hikes, be prepared for all conditions - especially ice on the trail or bridges.  In addition to packing the Ten Essentials, it is helpful to bring a hiking staff and some sort of extra traction device for your boots.  Be sure to give yourself permission to turn around early if the weather turns foul or if you don't feel comfortable with the conditions.  And make sure to call the forest or park for trail conditions and check the weather report.

Here are three hikes that are great in any season.  Each lies in a different quadrant of the Olympic Peninsula and each offers a unique hiking experience.

 

Upper Dungeness River

Dungeness River. By Jon Lee.

Location: Northeast Olympic National Forest
Distance: 6.8 miles roundtrip to Camp Handy
Elevation:  600 feet gain to a high point at 3100 feet
Maps: Green Trails Tyler Peak No. 136

Why Go?
The Upper Dungeness River trail is an easy stroll along a roaring river and among towering trees.  It's great for all ages (as long as the trail is snow and ice free), and the shelter at Camp Handy is a welcome and dry lunch destination on rainy days.  The trail parallels the river during most of the journey, always within earshot and often in view.  The forest canopy is magnificent, with old growth Douglas-fir more than 200 feet high and hundreds of years old and green moss carpeting the forest floor.  After crossing the river, you'll pull away from the river, and you will notice how quiet it is.  At the 3.2 mile mark, you will reach an unmarked junction - go right and head into the lovely meadow where the Camp Handy shelter sits.  This is a great turn-around spot for a winter's day.

Do note that because it is winter, you may encounter blowdowns along the way.  A two-day WTA work party in May 2007 cleared out big trees and fixed sliding sections of the trail, but more trees are likely to come down this season.  Also note that the footlog crossing the Dungeness 2.4 miles above the trailhead broke in 2006.  Crossing it during low water is not usually a problem, but as the water rising this winter, the ford is not recommended.  Olympic National Forest has included a replacement bridge in its 2008 budget and hopes to get it done in 2009.

For more information:  Olympic National Forest, Hood Canal Ranger District, Quilcene, 360-765-2200.  Guidebook: Day Hiking Olympic Peninsula (Craig Romano, The Mountaineers Books, 2007).  Read our Hiking Guide and Trip Reports of Dungeness River.

Directions: Drive Highway 101 to roughly 1 mile north of Sequim Bay State Park. Turn onto Palo Alto Road. In a couple of miles, Palo Alto becomes FS Road #28. Turn right onto FS Road #2880. In 1.7 miles, veer left onto FS Road #2870. Follow for 8.7 miles to the trailhead, located just across the bridge over the Dungeness River. A NW Forest Pass is required to park at the trailhead.

 

Hoh River

Counting Rings-Hoh Rainforest Trail by Arlo Smith

Location: Olympic National Park, near Forks
Distance: 10.6 miles roundtrip to Five Mile Island
Elevation:  300 feet gain to a high point at 800 feet
Maps: Green Trails Seven Lakes Basin - Mt. Olympus No. 133S

Why Go?
This hike is a classic in any season, but the hordes of tourists, hikers and climbers that use this trail in the summer dwindle to just a trickle in the winter.  With few people hiking along its banks in the off-season, the chances of seeing majestic Roosevelt elk increase dramatically.

There is something incredibly magical about the Hoh.  The huge trees, the cascading moss, the birds and elk, the Olympic Mountains rising above and the broad river valley extending up and downstream, all make this a hike that must be done at least once in a lifetime.  The trail is easy too - minimal elevation gain, perfect tread and an open understory.

Hike as far as you'd like - there are great spots to stop all along the way.  Five Mile Island offers a sunny lunch spot with views of Bogachiel Peak.  If it is raining, and you want to find a sheltered location, you can press on another half mile to the Happy Four Shelter.

For more information:  Olympic National Park, 360-565-3100.  Guidebook: Day Hiking Olympic Peninsula (Craig Romano, The Mountaineers Books, 2007).  Read our Hiking Guide and Trip Reports.

Directions: Turn east off highway 101 approximately 10 miles south of Forks onto the Hoh River Road. Follow this for 19 miles to the road end where the ranger station and trailhead are located.

 

Duckabush River

Along the Duckabush River Trail. By Brandon Brownell

Location:  Olympic National Forest, Eastern section
Distance: 5 - 10 miles roundtrip
Elevation:  800 feet gain to a high point of about 1000 feet at 3 miles
Maps: Green Trails The Brothers No. 168

Why Go?
After a mile of hiking on an old roadbed, you enter the Brothers Wilderness and get to experience true wilderness - the stillness of the tall and mossy trees, the solitude from the more trampled places on the Olympic Peninsula, and the wild and rushing Duckabush River two miles in.

The Duckabush is a true marvel.  Take time to admire the pure power of the water as it twists and roils over huge boulders and narrow gaps.  A great spot for lunch (and a wintery turn-around), is about a half mile after you first spot the river (2.5 miles).  It offers a beautiful cedar and fir canopy alongside the roaring Duckabush.  If conditions permit, you can push further to spectacular ridge-top views from the Big Hump.  Do note that it is a steep 1000 foot climb over just a mile, but worth it especially in the spring to see the lillies and rhodies.

You may encounter winter blowdowns along the way and portions of the trail need new tread.  Washington Trails Association volunteers focused extensively on this trail in 2007, with eleven days of work parties.  There will definitely be more work parties scheduled in 2008. 

For more information:  Olympic National Forest, Hood Canal Ranger District, Quilcene, 360-765-2200.  Guidebook: Day Hiking Olympic Peninsula (Craig Romano, The Mountaineers Books, 2007).  Review our Hiking Guide and Trip Reports for Duckabush.

Directions: Drive Hwy 101 37 miles north of Shelton and turn west (left) at milepost 310 onto Duckabush Road.  At six miles, turn right on FR 2510-060 to reach the trailhead.