Trip Reports

Dependably perfect September has morphed into opportunistic October as far as hiking weather is concerned and Sunday was a slim opportunity so I took it. Cool and cloudy are perfect conditions for climbing a steep, exposed slope and today that was Bandera. The trail is clear and water is minimal. Autumn colors are reaching for their full glory. The climb from the Ira Spring trail to the ridge is as stiff as ever and the rock scramble up to the summit is still an effort. It was snowing on top of Defiance and a bit of flurry on Bandera hinted at winter's approach. Still this is a good hike any day until the snow gets thick.

Little Challenging to climb to the top of the perch. Took us 2.30 hours. The best part of the trek was the climb from the basin to the perch. The larches were flush with yellow. The basin was looking surreal. Almost dreamy. From the basin, we climbed up and we came upon a fork. We took the left fork as suggested by a few folks climbing down. This trails kind of ends at the peak but one has to turn right from there onwards to walk along the ridge to get to the perch. The 360 degree view from the perch is breathtaking, raw and wild.

This easy trail leads, as others have reported, through a vast burn that killed all trees except in a few islands of green. One of those islands is the east shore of Black Lake. It is like an oasis after walking in sunlight through a stand of black snags the length of the valley. Except for those little patches of green, there are only standing dead trees as far as you can see.

The trailhead sign says 5 miles to Black Lake, but it's really only 4. The trail is mostly within the Pasayten Wilderness, although any wilderness entry sign was apparently destroyed in the fire.

A fair amount of blowdown is across the trail. Mostly it is step-overs, but some require short detours. With so many standing dead tress, expect many more to tumble in the next several years. The trail is also fairly brushy.

This hike offers a study in regeneration after a fire. Fireweed, manzanita, willows, aspen, and young lodgepole pines are flourishing. In the fall, all this shrubbery was colorful. Yet, in other ways the area seems like a desert. Except for a few chipmunks, we saw no sign of wildlife -- no tracks or scat.

We are confused about the date of the fire. Locals we met on the trail said this was part of the big Thirtymile fire in 2001. That seems consistent with the size of the new seedlings. But another trail report says that the fire was in 2003. A trip report in the spring of 2003 does not mention the burn, which suggests it happened later that year. Another local told us that the area around and beyond Black Lake burned at a different time from the Thirtymile fire. We hope someone can clarify this.

Dave Knibb
 

~
Yesterday Gene, Janice, Michael, Steve, Tom and myself took on Bandera Mountain.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/[…]/2917351413_d20b152da9.jpg

It was the only day all week that we stood a chance of having any decent weather (and by decent I mean “partial clearing”, so we went for it. There’s not much hiking season left and I’m getting what I can in.

After a comedy of errors including late meetups and missed exits, we met Janice & Michael at the trailhead (who were VERY good about the fact that we were WAY late)

It was misting lightly at the trailhead and we started the 3,000 foot ascent.

The first part of the trail is old roadbed, and then quickly moves to a new (and greatly improved) trail that was really amazing in spots. The folks who worked on the new trail should be commended; it’s awesome.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/[…]/2919232424_a1682dec5a.jpg

Of course, I stopped fairly early on because I’ve never met a waterfall or fungus I didn’t want to photograph (ask all my annoyed friends who know how easily I’m distracted by shiny things when I have a camera) and got this shot.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/[…]/2918064764_4b529117b8.jpg

I climbed down the bank and straddled the log and leaned out to get a less obstructed shot; that’s when I heard giggling behind me and saw Michael and Steve with their cameras out. I’m sure pictures of my backside will be circulating soon.

The fall colors are coming out

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/[…]/2917244963_8480b188e8.jpg

On the 2nd steep uphill, I came to the sad realization that I have not kicked this sinus crud and had a near bonk (*YES, I have a doctors appointment tomorrow, so you all can quit worrying)

Michael and I were in the back talking “business” (an internet project I’ll be doing some work for him on) and after stopping to eat realized that I was not well. After some protesting, I finally got him to leave me be and go on ahead. (although I’m sure he was going to keep me in his sights) He did give me his car keys so that if I got really sick, I cold go back and sit in his car rather than in the rain.

I saw him talking to Tom and Gene up the trail and they were all staring at me.

Tom and Gene (who know me a lot better and like living dangerously) refused to leave me alone and hung back with me, despite the fact that I was actually getting a bit pissy about it.

I took breaks to eat, drink and rest. (I didn’t eat enough the day before because I was running around like a mad woman and haven’t had a full night’s sleep for well over a week, not even after the Mt Rainier trip) and they just stayed with me (even though they got “the look” more than once)

Bandera is STEEP!

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/[…]/2917338147_751718b4a6.jpg

We took a break about halfway up the trail cutoff to Bandera, and after that, it was a pretty steady slog.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/[…]/2918123802_a527c6607d.jpg

At this point, we were pretty well separated into three groups, some going on to Mason Lake as well.

Here’s a shot of the lake from the trail to Bandera (yes, that would be SNOW you see in the picture)

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/[…]/2918144886_0f19bc877d.jpg

Me, I slogged up the trail and was relieved to find some scrambling. Not only do I just LOVE to scramble because it’s fun, but it’s easier (at least to me) than just slogging up a steep trail. (check out the clouds coming in)

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/[…]/2917285691_4f14da3919.jpg

Here’s the “big ridge” which was the final approach to the final approach to the final scramble up to the summit.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/[…]/2917335305_83c2bcc130.jpg

Here are Tom and I at the top. You can’t really tell we’re at the top (other than the tree top to our left) because there’s nothing behind us but snow clouds; it was really cool!

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/[…]/2918160612_c9af382bb6.jpg

I felt much better coming down than I did last week, so I don’t think I’m actively sick; (glares at Tom waiting for another snark about rationalizing) I think I’m just not fully recovering.

But it was a GREAT day, and I bagged another peak.

The best part was, I did it with GREAT friends!

The rest of my photos are here http://www.flickr.com/[…]/

The rest of Gene's photos are available here http://www.flickr.com/photos/29184487@N02/


~L

Rainy hike from Bridge Creek Trailhead, followed PCT south to junction with McAlester Trail (at Fireweed Camp), headed up and over McAlester Pass and down the Rainbow Creek Trail as far as Bench Creek Camp. Back the same route the next morning.

Trail was in good condition with a few small stream crossings, recent rain created muddy patches and puddles, but overall the trails were clear and easy to navigate. Biggest obstacle are the horse droppings as this is a stock trail as well.

Fall colors starting to appear.

Green Trails Map #82 is recommended.

Karen & I took a short hike in Cowiche Canyon this afternoon. The red from the sumac & other shrubs is about at its peak. The yellow in the trees is just beginning. It should be beautiful in here for the next 3 weeks or so (though unless the red hangs on, it won't be quite as nice as last year).

The drive up FR to the trail was a little rough in the area where some work is being done. Otherwise easy. Took a wrong turn at one point trusting the 100 Hikes book. The mileages in these books are always significantly off for me (and not by a consistent degree).

The trail is in fine condition. There were hordes of people. Lots of berries. Good fall foliage. The only possible obstacle was that the trail crosses a stream that grew significantly in volume over the course of the day. Did not require any wading however.

I made it up to about 6400'. Some people were skiing down the Easton Glacier. Looked like fun. From the summit I think you can drop to around 6300' before having to take off the skis. That makes something like 4400' of vertical. Not bad.

http://www.flickr.com/jasonracey

Accessed Knapsack Pass trail at Ranger Cabin on south side of Mowich Lake. Sign nearby lists trail as "unmaintained" but it is heavily used and in pretty good shape. Early on in forest a few blowdowns, only one presents any challenge, a large tree that fell parallel across the trail. Other reports listed this trail as quite muddy, but it is now apparently late enough in the year where it wasn't too bad. Pretty hike through forest with streams and a small waterfall. Once out of the trees I could take in the red foliage of fall on the open slopes. I passed one couple and a solo hiker. The solo hiker was on his way back from summitting Fay Peak and he gave me tips on that peak and Mother Mountain. There were rocky slopes below the pass and I saw several marmots. Also heard pikas. About 200 feet below the pass I saw 2 guys going off on a path to the right. They were attempting Fay Peak. I decided to stay on the trail to the pass. At the pass was a NP Ranger, I'll call him Ranger Z (last name started with Z). I noticed he had a shovel with his gear. He said he had been doing some trail work. He came from the Spray Park trailhead and was heading back around the way I had came. Ranger Z was very friendly and gave me lots of good trail tips. We watched 2 mt goats up on the slope below Fay Peak. There were still some snowfields up there. I decided, based on the time I had, not to continue on over the pass or attempt Fay Peak. I instead decided, based upon Ranger Z's report and others I had read to go up First Mother. There is a path that isn't hard to follow the whole way there. The path goes up or around several knobs. The high point is pretty obvious, it is the furthest to the northeast that one can reasonably hike to (although the Mother Mountain range continues on). Minimal scrambling was required. It felt great to be up there so late in the season with still nice weather. I looked across to Fay Peak and saw 2 figures on the summit. I waved across and eventually got a wave back. Ate a sandwich and soaked in the views. Could have stayed all day; no bugs, light wind, great temps, great views, solitude; but had to head back. I will definitely be coming back to explore more and hopefully bag some more peaks. Russ from Brooklake wants to come back here with me and do the traverse down the other side through Spray Park, etc. Hopefully next season. Distance to Knapsack Pass only around 2 miles, give or take. Not especially steep but steady. Unfortunately forgot my camera so no photos. Would definitely recommend this one for later in the season.

This trail is almost a Sunday walk in the park - after you get to the Malachite junction. Road 68 and 6835 to the trailhead for the West Foss Lakes trailhead is in very good shape. Most of the potholes have been filled and it is free of ruts and almost all washboards. The first half mile of trail 1064 is a cobbled stream bed but it soon emerges onto a nice trail. At one mile is the crossing of the stream. The bridge is history, but a well marked series of cairns directs you across a convenient log. On the other side the trail is very easy to follow. The river has carved out deep swaths of the side of the avalanche slope. Blowdowns are numerous from the trailhead all the way up to the Malachite bridge. The trail up to the Malachite junction is rocky and brushy and there are a lot of blowdowns. From the Malachite junction to Little Heart Lake is very nice trail, some steps, 3 blowdowns two of which are large. The trail to Big Heart Lake is strenuous but very clear and only 3 blowdowns. All in all this is a good hike and worth the effort. The autumn colors are just coming in and mushrooms abound. Trail time was 2 hours to the Malachite bridge, half hour to Copper Lake, half hour to Little Heart and another hour to Big Heart. The Malachite Lake trail is signed but appears to be heavily overgrown.

I had not previously had a very high opinion of Talapus Lake because it's usually such a mob scene. However, on an October Wednesday, it's quite charming. We did encounter a few other hikers but, as we ate our lunch and looked out over the lake, we could almost believe it was untouched by humans - except for the overly friendly chipmunk and the fishing bobbers snarled in the branches above us.

The trail is in excellent shape, and shady most of the way. No bugs at all during the day. I heard a few mosquitoes at night, but they weren't biting. It is hunting season, but we encountered no evidence of hunters.

The large information sign at the trailhead had lost its legs and was propped against a rock. When we returned to the trailhead, a crew was remounting the sign. Part of the road had also been freshly graveled.

About halfway to Talapus Lake there is a nice little lunch nook off the left side of the trail. A log bench overlooks Talapus Creek just before you reach the lake. Much of the Talapus lakeshore is blocked off for restoration.

We intended to camp at Olallie Lake, but missed the turnoff and headed up toward Pratt Lake instead. When we returned, we saw the Olallie Lake sign, but it was posted on the north side a large tree, so it's not surprising that we didn't see it coming up from the south. For future reference, the Olallie Lake turnoff is on the near side of the next real river crossing after the Talapus Lake outlet.

A September 20 Forest Service report posted at the trailhead mentioned hearing migratory birds. We didn't hear many birds, which may have just been the weather, or maybe they've moved on.

Very few plants were in bloom, except for some foamflower and a tall larkspur off to the side of one of the boardwalks. The low maples around Talapus Lake are starting to turn, and are quite lovely. We also saw (among other things) vanilla leaf, queens cup, twinflower, rattlesnake plantain, thimbleberry, salmonberry, one-sided wintergreen, five-leaf bramble, skunk cabbage, trillium, pipsissewa, and an interesting assortment of mushrooms.

The site where we ended up camping abounded in resin - on the ground and the trees. We've learned to remove it from our persons by first scrubbing with dirt and then with lots of Purell. We haven't yet mastered getting it off fabric.